PUBLIC EDUCATION

PUBLIC EDUCATION

Please click here for a great article on
Understanding your dog's Bloodwork.

Check back to this page often.

It will contain general information on the health and welfare of our dogs.

I will try to update at least monthly.
If there are topics you would like to see discussed on this page,
please email me at dixie@nofauxpax.com

Important links: American Kennel Club http://www.akc.org
Orthopedic Foundation of America http://www.offa.org
Chinese Shar-Pei Club of America http://www.cspca.com

Scenario: You go to a dog show; you would really be having a lot of fun, if only you could understand the language that was spoken there. You feel like you just dropped in to a foreign country. You would really like to ask some one the meaning of the words you are hearing, but you are afraid they will laugh at you. Although it sounds like English, you have never heard the words used in this context.
Well, never fear help is on the way. Here is a basic primer for the “dog show lingo”!
Please study as there will be a test J

Dog Show Lingo
Dog--a male canine
Bitch--a female canine (no it is not a dirty word)
Put up--placed in a class or better
Put down--not put up for any award
Ringer--a substitute for; a dog closely resembling another dog
Pointed--has earned at least one point towards AKC bench or field championship
Major pointed--has earned at least one major toward AKC bench or field championship
Cluster--a group of consecutive shows held at the same show site
Circuit--a convenient string of consecutive shows at different locations, not far apart
Hander's show/Handler draw--a show that draws large numbers of professional handlers
Specialty--a show for one breed only, usually offering more classes and prizes
Supported Entry--a show where large numbers of the supported breed will be shown, but not a specialty
Bench show--a show where the exhibits (the dogs) must be on display all day
National--the specialty put on by the parent club, usually the largest
Parent Club--the national club for the breed in the USA
Sire--male parent
Dam--female parent
Stud dog--a male dog used for breeding purposes
Brood bitch--a bitch used for breeding purposes
Foundation Bitch--a bitch used for starting a line of one's own
Line--refers to a distinctive "family" of dogs in specified breed; each breeder has his/her own distinct "line"
Inbreeding--the breeding of immediately related specimens (i.e. brother x sister)
Linebreeding--the breeding of closely related dogs, but not close enough to be considered inbreeding
Outcrossing--the breeding of unrelated specimens; breeding to a dog or bitch from another line
In the Show Ring
Stack--a show dog's standing pose
Free Stack--a show dog's natural pose w/out being touched by the handler
Gait--referring to the extended trot of a dog in the show ring
Bait--food, treats, or toys used to get a dog's attention, expression, or free stack in the ring
Baiting--the use of bait
Six to Nine--refers to the dog show class for puppies six months or over and under nine months
Nine to Twelve--same as above, only between nine and twelve months
Twelve to Eighteen--see above
Open--usually the largest and most competitive class (note; I said usually) for all dogs
Special--referring to a champion of recorder who is still being shown and campaigned
'Breed--having won the Best of Breed or Variety award: EX: "Fido took the breed on Sunday"
'Opposite--having won the Best of Opposite Sex award, same context as above
Winners--having taken (won) Winners Dog or Winners Bitch
'Reserve--having taken Reserve Winners Dog or Bitch
Making the cut/Getting pulled--being selected out of a larger group for further examination by the judge
P.I.G.--pulled in Group; a dog that mad the cut in the group ring
The Cut--the handful of dogs that the judge wishes to further consider for placements; those that don't make the cut are typically dismissed.

Here are a few more terms that you might find helpful

All-Breed Show - Show given by an all-breed kennel club.

Articles - Cotton gloves and metal objects (often dumbbells) which are used in the discrimination exercises in utility level obedience.

Benched show - Show where all the dogs entered are assigned space in a given area on the "benching" and are required to stay there for the day, so that spectators can find an example of the breed any time during the day, not just at the breed's scheduled ring time. Benched shows have become quite rare.

Brace - Brace competition, two dogs of the same breed are shown at one time by one handler; this pair is judged on overall quality as well as similarity to each other.

Campaign - A dog which is a champion, which is being shown at the Best of Breed and Group level is called a 'special'; he is being 'specialed'. A dog being 'heavily specialed' is being 'campaigned'.

Chipped - Micro chipped; bionic dogs identified with an electronic id chip.

CGC - Canine Good Citizen; a certificate and title given to dogs that pass minimal standards for "good behavior".

Choke - Kind of collar; tension tightens the collar so the dog cannot back out and get loose; may be metal or nylon

Crate - cage

Ex - not a former spouse; short for exercise, a euphemism for taking the dog out to perform its eliminatory functions

Finish - in obedience, a command which sends the dog to sit at the exhibitor's side; otherwise, to finish a Championship or other title. "Is he finished?"

Flexi - a popular type of spring loaded leash for exercising dogs

Handler - person who shows dogs for other people; professional handler. May also board, train and groom their charges, or may pick the dog up at the ringside from the owner.

Junior - Junior handler; competitive classes in different age divisions are offered for young people who

Owner-handler - The actual owner of the dog is the person taking him in the ring and presenting him to the judge, rather than a professional handler; breeder-owner-handler means that this person also bred the dog, didn't simply purchase it. A mark of prestige if the dog wins impressively, in that he did it without the benefit of a 'professional handler', e.g. he did it on his own. However, it is definitely the case that many owner-handlers are just as skilled as the best professional handlers.

Pooper Scooper - Either the self-explanatory item of equipment or the person wielding it!

Rig - anything from a mini-van with the seats out to a high top van with roof air, awning and crate Benching, to Greyhound Bus size motor homes.

Ringsiding - Delivering your dog to a professional handler just before going into the ring. The handler does not board, groom, train, or carry this dog in their 'rig'.

Standard - the description of a breed which enables breeders and judges to evaluate the quality of an individual dog; AKC Breed Standard.

Sweepstakes - special classes held in conjunction with Specialty shows and some others, for 6 to 18 month old puppies and young adults; not a regular class does not have a "winners" class, no points are awarded for competition.

Tack box- Whatever you carry all your grooming gear in

Water Hole - water bowl designed to keep ears and whiskers dry

Wheels - a flat, wheeled dolly, made to transport crates, grooming tables and other gear in from your car.

Hopefully, this short course in dog show lingo will make your day at the show just a little bit more fun.

See you ringside.

Kids and Dog Safety

Teaching children the do's and don'ts regarding animals is among one of the most important lessons you'll ever teach them. Animals are everywhere and though many are domesticated, this does not automatically make them safe. For example, in the U.S. alone, 1-2 million dog bites occur annually.

Today many homes are raising children along with the family dog. Naturally kids delight in hugging, petting, and playing with their pets. But unfortunately, many children grow up believing that all dogs are gentle and friendly like their pets, and commonly fall victim to a dog attack, simply because they'd never been taught when it's not okay to approach a dog.

Start teaching your children the following safety guidelines regarding dogs when they are quite young, and continue reinforcing these precautions frequently.

1. Never run up to a dog.

2. Never attempt to touch a neighbor's dog through a fence.

3. Never touch a dog that is growling, showing his teeth, or barking hysterically.

4. Young children must never approach dogs without a grown-up's supervision.

5. Always hold your hand out first and allow the dog to sniff your hand.

6. Never grab at a dog.

7. Don't approach a dog that is a watch dog protecting his property.

8. Never attempt to touch a dog that is eating or in possession of a bone or a treat of some sort.

9. Never hurt the animal by pulling it's tail or fur for example.

10. If the dog is leashed, ask the dog's owner permission to pet the dog first.

11. Keep your face away from the dog's, when approaching or playing with them.

12. Don't make loud noises or sudden moves when approaching a dog. Speak softly to it.

13. If a dog is chasing you, stop running, as this encourages him to chase you.

14. Avoid eye contact with an aggressive dog, and back off slowly and non-threateningly.

15. Do not touch, or attempt to touch, the animal's eyes.

Household Medications for Pets

The following is a list of human medications commonly found in the household. These same products may be used with pets. As with any medical condition, however, it is always best to consult your veterinarian.

Product

Canine Dosage

Feline Dosage

Common Use

Buffered Aspirin

5 mg per pound every 12 hours, best taken on full stomach

Not recommended

pain relief, anti-inflammatory

Vitamin B

1/2 to 2 ml subcutaneously every 24 hours

1/2 to 1 ml subcutaneously every 24 hours

used as an appetite stimulant

Benadryl

1 to 2 mg per pound body weight every 8 hours

same as canine dosage

treat allergies, itching, reaction to insect stings, etc.

Chlorpheniramine

4 mg every 12 hours

Not recommended

treat allergies, itching, etc..

Dramamine

up to 50 mg every 8 hours

up to 10 mg every 8 hours

used to reduce car sickness

Hydrogen Peroxide 3%

10 ml by mouth every 15 minutes

same as canine dosage

used to induce vomiting after accidental ingestion of a poison

Epinephrine 1:1,000

1/10 to 1/2 ml intramuscular or subcutaneously

1/2 to 2/10 ml intramuscular or subcutaneously

used to treat reactions following insect stings bites or medications

Pepto Bismol

1 tsp. per 5 pounds every 6 hours

Not recommended

used to relieve vomiting or stomach gas, diarrhea

Di Gel Liquid

up to 4 tbs. every 8 hours

up to 2 tbs every 8 hours

antacid and anti-gas

Maalox

Same as Di Gel

Not known

antacid and anti-gas

Mineral Oil

up to 4 tbs daily

up to 2 teaspoons daily

used to eliminate constipation

Kaopectate

1 ml per pound every 2 hours

same as canine dosage

for diarrhea

Tylenol (acetaminophen)

Not recommended

Not recommended

NA

Ibuprophin, Motrin, Nuprin

Not recommended

Not recommended

NA

Imodium

follow child dosage

Not recommended

for diarrhea

ANIMAL SAFETY

Pets and Disaster: Be Prepared

At this time of heightened alert let us not forget our pets. Our pets enrich our lives in more ways than we can count. In turn, they depend on us for their safety and well-being. Here are some ways you can be prepared to protect your pets when disaster strikes. The Humane Society of the United States in cooperation with the American Red Cross has prepared the following information.

Be prepared with a disaster plan.

The best way to protect your family from the effects of a disaster is to have a disaster plan. If you are a pet owner, that plan must include your pets. Being prepared can save their lives.

Different disasters require different responses. But whether the disaster is a hurricane or a hazardous spill, you may have to evacuate your home.

In the event of a disaster, if you must evacuate, the most important thing you can do to protect your pets is to evacuate them too! Leaving pets behind, even if you try to create a safe place for them, is likely to result in their being injured, lost or worse. So prepare now for the day when you and your pets may have to leave your home.

1. Have a safe place to take your pets.

Red Cross disaster shelters CANNOT ACCEPT PETS because of states' health and safely regulations and other considerations. Service animals who assist people with disabilities are the ONLY animals allowed in Red Cross shelters. It may be difficult, if not impossible, to find shelter for your animals in the midst of a disaster, so plan ahead. Do not wait until disaster strikes to do your research. Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area to check policies on accepting pets and restrictions on number, size and species.

Ask in "no pet" policies could be waived in an emergency. Keep a list of "pet friendly' places including phone numbers, with other disaster information and supplies. If you have notice of an impending disaster, call ahead for reservations. Ask friends, relatives or others outside the affected area whether they could shelter your animals. If you have more than one pet, they may be more comfortable if kept together, but be prepared to house them separately.. Prepare a list of boarding facilities and veterinarians who could shelter animals in an emergency; include 24-hour phone numbers. Ask local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets in a disaster. Animal shelters may be overburdened caring for the animals they already have as well as those displaced by a disaster, so this should be your last resort.

2. Assemble a Portable Pet Disaster Supplies Kit.

Medications and medical records (stored in a waterproof container) and a first aid kit. Sturdy leashes, harnesses, and/or carriers to transport pets safely and ensure that your animals can't escape. Current photos of your pets in case they get lost. Food, potable water, bowls, a can opener. Information on feeding schedules, medical conditions, behavior problems, and the name and number of your veterinarian in case you have to foster or board your pets. Pet beds and toys, if easily transportable.

3. Know what to do as a Disaster Approaches.

Often, warnings are issued hours, even days in advance. At the first hint of disaster, act to protect your pet. Call ahead to confirm emergency shelter arrangements for you and our pets. Check to be sure your pet disaster supplies are ready to take at a moments notice. Bring all pets into the house so that you won't have to search for them if you have to leave in a hurry. Make sure all dogs and cats are wearing collars and securely fastened, up-to-date identification. Attach phone number and address of your temporary shelter. If you know it, of a friend or relative outside the disaster area. You can buy temporary tags or put adhesive tape on the back of your pet's ID tag, adding information with an indelible pen.

You may not be hoe when the evacuation order comes. Find out if a trusted neighbor would be willing to take your pets and meet you at a prearranged location. This person should be comfortable with your pets, know where your animals are likely to be, know where your pet disaster supplies kit is kept, and have a key to your home. If you use a pet sitting service, they may be available to help, but discuss the possibility well in advance. Planning and preparation will enable you to evacuate with your pets quickly and safely. But bare in mind that animals react differently under stress. Outside your home and in the car, keep dogs securely leashed. Transport in carriers. Don't leave animals unattended anywhere they can run off. The most trustworthy pets may panic, hide, try to escape, or even bite or scratch. And when you return home, give your pets time to settle back into their routines.

IF YOU MUST EVACUATE, DO NOT LEAVE YOUR ANIMALS BEHIND.

Canine Streptococcal
This disease has been the cause of sudden death in several breeds. It has also been confused with outbreaks of Kennel Cough. Initial symptoms are lethargy and high fever but progression to collapse and death is very quick, only a matter of hours at the most.

Typically dogs have appeared healthy and lively and then been found a few hours later in a collapsed state, usually flat out on their side, either too weak to move, having mild convulsions, or being rigid. Often there is uncontrolled rapid twitching of muscles. The temperature is very high (105°F - normal is 101.5°F). As the disease progresses a deep, non-productive (producing no phlegm) cough develops, and very soon afterwards there is haemorrhaging from the nose, coughing up blood, and in some cases bloody diarrhea.?

Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that affects humans and animals. It is caused by bacteria of the genus Leptospira. In humans it causes a wide range of symptoms, and some infected persons may have no symptoms at all. Symptoms of leptospirosis include high fever, severe headache, chills, muscle aches, and vomiting, and may include jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), red eyes, abdominal pain, diarrhea, or a rash. If the disease is not treated, the patient could develop kidney damage, meningitis (inflammation of the membrane around the brain and spinal cord), liver failure, and respiratory distress.

The Vaccination Controversy
By Donna Raditic, D.V.M., C.V.A.

Veterinary medicine is growing in leaps and bounds. Kidney transplants in cats, total hip replacements in dogs, and genetic testing for diseases are new and exciting areas in veterinary medicine. The doctors at ACAC believe it is our responsibility to stay abreast of new developments and research that may benefit you and your companion .

One of the current topics in veterinary medicine is a critical evaluation of vaccination programs for dogs and cats. Early vaccines were developed to stop the spread of serious, highly contagious diseases in dogs and cats.
These primitive vaccines were tested and in some instances did not last for more than a year.
This historical research is used as one of the reasons today's vaccines are repeated annually.

Veterinarians were forced to take a serious look at annual vaccinations after the discovery of feline vaccine associated sarcoma, a fatal skin cancer that is seen in a small population of cats given vaccines. The occurrence of this cancer is small, but it forced all veterinarians to look at vaccinations with ne,,' respect and not assume they are safe in all situations.

The current controversy has expanded to question the logic of giving annual vaccines to animals and using vaccines to prevent mild, less infectious diseases. Today's vaccines are the result of much research and investment by pharmaceutical companies and no longer resemble their primitive origins. Unfortunately, what has not been included in vaccine development is research looking at how long the memory immune response generated by a particular vaccine lasts.
There is also little data on the long term effects of annual vaccination programs.

Some veterinarians are looking 'critically at annual vaccination programs as a source of over stimulation of the body's immune system. What may result from over stimulation of the immune system are diseases such as allergic skin disease, food hypersensitivity, seizures, autoimmune diseases, autoimmune thyroid degeneration, and inflammatory bowel diseases. These all belong to a category of diseases where the body's immune system is out of control and is responding inappropriately, causing the disease.
These diseases are often chronic and seldom cured. These same issues are being discussed in human medicine with childhood vaccination programs.

Certainly there is an economic role in this vaccine controversy. Animal owners have long been trained to bring their pets in for "shots:' often times without even knowing what these shots are for or why they are necessary . Pharmaceutical companies would sustain economic losses if vaccines were not recommended annually. Therefore, there is little initiative to do research into long-term vaccine effects and efficacy .. Veterinarians will need to learn to educate owners about this vaccine controversy and be prepared to help owners make intelligent decisions for their companions. We also need to retrain owners about the importance of annual physical examinations and preventative diagnostic blood and urine testing rather than depending on vaccinations as the foundation of preventative health care.

We, at ACAC, support adequate puppy and kitten vaccines to prevent life threatening disease. After these early vaccines, each animal needs to receive a thorough physical examination and discussion regarding lifestyle and exposure to contagious diseases to determine an appropriate preventative medicine program. All Caring has been involved in Cornell University's vaccine tittering program for about five years.
This simple blood test will determine how much protective immunity your companion has from vaccines received throughout his or her life. We use this test often in adult animals and can give that individual only the vaccines absolutely needed.

This prevents us from overstimulating the immune system.
but assures us that your companion is protected. Our titer results have aligned with a recent study that showed that 96% of adult dogs do not require annual vaccines for most of their life after initial early childhood vaccines. We have been amazed how few of our patients need vaccinations as demonstrated by Cornell's titer results. By using vaccine titers, we are pleased not to challenge our patient's immune system unnecessarily.
Please feel free to ask questions and discuss this controversial issue when you visit us with your companion.

Aging Signs: When is a Dog a "Senior"?

This is the first article in a of a series, that I will present on the care of the older dog.

Please feel free to email me with any special areas you would like me to cover.

Like people, dogs are individual in the way they age. Certain breeds, mixed breeds, and, in general, smaller dogs tend to live longer. A small dog of less than 20 pounds might not seem to show any signs of age until she is 12 or so. A 50-pound dog won't seem old until about 10. Larger dogs begin to show their age at 8 or 9.

It's encouraging that the average lifespan for dogs has increased from 7 years in the 1930's to more than 12 years today. With the right care, it's not uncommon for dogs to live to 14 or 15 these days. Using established guidelines to determine when your dog might qualify as a senior will help you to understand changes in behavior or to anticipate a change in health status. On the basis of your knowledge, you will be better able to identify and approach health problems in an early stage, when they may be more easily treated. Following is a table to give you an idea of the relationship between a dog's age and a human's. Note that the weight of the dog is related to his age in human years:

A Dog's Age in Human Years
Age	Up to 20 lbs	21-50 lbs	51-90 lbs	Over 90 lbs
5	36	37	40	42
6	40	42	45	49
7	44	47	50	56
8	48	51	55	64
9	52	56	61	71
10	56	60	66	78
11	60	65	72	86
12	64	69	77	93
13	68	74	82	101
14	72	78	88	108
15	76	83	93	115
16	80	87	99	123
17	84	92	104	Red numbers = senior Blue numbers = geriatric
18	88	96	109
19	92	101	115
20	96	105	120
Chart developed by Dr. Fred L. Metzger, DVM, State College, PA. Courtsy of Pfizer Animal Health.

Canine Streptococcal This disease has been the cause of sudden death in several breeds. It has also been confused with outbreaks of Kennel Cough. Initial symptoms are lethargy and high fever but progression to collapse and death is very quick, only a matter of hours at the most.

Canine Streptococcal
This disease has been the cause of sudden death in several breeds. It has also been confused with outbreaks of Kennel Cough. Initial symptoms are lethargy and high fever but progression to collapse and death is very quick, only a matter of hours at the most.